A route guide by Olle Persson.

Trosa havsbad – Kråmö and back

The small town of Trosa, about an hour’s drive south of Stockholm, is the gateway to a beautiful and easy-to-reach archipelago. It is dominated by the large islands of Askö and Fifång and three wide, open bays where the wind can make paddling hard work. The chain of smaller islands between Fifång and Askö, on the other hand, is far more sheltered and perfect for a relaxed day out.

Bokö–Oxnö, Kråmö, Grytan and Korpen lie like a string of beads close to the mainland, reached through the narrow canal between Hämö and the mainland. Most of the islands are nature reserves. On the north-west point of Bokö–Oxnö stands the Julafton (“Christmas Eve”) lighthouse, named after a ship that was wrecked here in a snowstorm.

Kråmö makes a great destination, especially if you are fairly new to kayaking. The island has an old farmstead dating back to the 1600s and red holiday cottages built in the 1940s, now owned and rented out by Trosa municipality. In summer a tour boat from Trosa harbour calls at the jetty.

Route facts

• Start and finish: Trosa havsbad campsite at Rävudden on Öbolandet, just outside Trosa harbour (connected by bridge). Ask at reception to use the launch ramp and park as directed. Alternatives: the small-boat harbour by the bridge to Öbolandet, or Stensund folk high school just north of Trosa.
• Distance: 12 km
• Difficulty: easy to moderate
• Map: topographic map Sörmlands skärgård, 1:50,000
• Highlights: island village, narrow canal, sheltered bays and a lighthouse
• Kayak rental: available at Trosa havsbad and at Stensund

The route step by step

1. From Trosa havsbad, aim for Hämö across the bay. You cross the approach to Trosa harbour, so watch out for boats.
2. Keep right of the northern tip of Hämö and follow its shore south towards the reeds. On the left side of the reed bed, closest to Hämö, a canal opens up (speed limit 3 knots). Paddle through with Hämö on your left.
3. Follow the shore of Hämö to the left, heading almost due east. Ahead you see Julafton lighthouse and its yellow keeper’s house on Bokö–Oxnö. Pass with the lighthouse on your right – or, in a northerly wind, go round the other side of the island.
4. Pass Brännskär, with a sandy beach on its western tip, and land on the north side of Kråmö, on the beach just past the big wooden jetty.
5. Return the same way.

Want to stay the night? The cottages on Kråmö can be booked through Trosa tourist office.

The jetty on Kråmö.

New to kayaking?

This route is mostly sheltered and suits beginners. If you are staying in Stockholm and want to get used to a kayak first, rent a kayak on Långholmen in the city centre or join a guided kayak tour in English. Planning your own trips? A stable sea kayak, an inflatable kayak or a double kayak all work well here – and always wear a life jacket. More routes nearby: the Nyköping archipelago and Stendörren.