Kayaking at Stendörren in Sörmland

December 02, 2023

Kayaker in a red sea kayak passing a black-and-white lighthouse in the archipelago at Stendörren

The archipelago around Stendörren lies on the Sörmland coast between Nyköping and Trosa, south of Stockholm. The nature reserve has two parts: a mainland area with nearby islands, several reached on foot via suspension bridges, and an archipelago area you can only reach by boat. On the mainland there is a visitor centre (naturum) at Aspnäset, open in summer, as well as rental cabins and several wind shelters.

The reserve is meant to be open for outdoor life, but note that camping is not allowed on the parts you can reach on foot or west of the inner archipelago channel. Check the current rules with the County Administrative Board of Södermanland (Länsstyrelsen) before you go. The whole area, especially the archipelago part, is very scenic: you paddle through a maze of narrow channels with open sea close by, and there are plenty of smooth rocks for a break or an overnight stay.

Getting there and where to launch

Follow road 219 between Vagnhärad and Nyköping and turn off at the sign for Studsvik. You can launch at Studsvik jetty or at Stendörren.

Studsvik jetty: continue past the industrial site down to the water and launch from the slipway at the end of the jetties.
Stendörren: turn right at the Stendörren sign just over 2 km after leaving road 219 and continue to the last car park before the barrier. 150 metres before the car park, an arrow points right to a floating jetty for canoes. A kayak trolley makes it easy to roll the kayak from the car.

Paddling around Stendörren

Stendörren’s archipelago is unique: in a small area you find every type of archipelago landscape, from sheltered inner islands to the outer skerries. The visitor centre next to one of the best-known routes on the east coast gives you easy access to information, and you can combine paddling with a hike in the reserve. The islands connected to the mainland have many barbecue and picnic spots.

Launch: Stendörren
Distance: 7.5 km
Difficulty: Easy
Map: Terrängkarta Sörmlands skärgård, scale 1:50,000
Highlights: living archipelago landscape, narrow channels between islands, open sea, visitor centre and picnic spots

From the jetty to Stendörren

Launch from the floating jetty in a quiet bay surrounded by rocks and pine trees. Paddle under the suspension bridge to Stora Krokholmen, out into Fladen and round Runnudden with its jetties and the visitor centre just inside. You are now in the inner archipelago channel, which often has heavy boat traffic. Grazing animals at Aspnäset on your left keep the landscape open. In the middle of the channel lies Nordstjärnans grund with the historic lighthouse Fyrhuset – the channel is tricky to navigate here.

Around Krampö and Griskär

Pass through the narrow northern passage that gave the area its name, Stendörren (“the stone door”), and round Krampö to the right, heading south-east. Most of Krampö is outside the reserve. You now have a shipping channel on your left in the sound towards Ringsö. After Krampö you see the Griskär Övre lighthouse on a skerry to your right. Follow the east side of Griskär, pass the Griskär Nedre lighthouse and round the southern point.

The most spectacular part

Round Griskär and paddle up the narrow sound towards Springarholmen, round Granholmen to the south and continue through the sound towards Klovskär. This is the most spectacular part of the reserve, with tight passages, rocks and open sea mixed with sheltered waters. There are many rocks for a break or an overnight stay, for example on the south side of Springarholmen and the west side of Klovskär.

Back to the start

Cross Krampöfladen – the open bay ahead – to the west. Round Krampö on its south side, again through narrow passages towards the small islets. You are now back at the inner channel. Cross it to the north, watching out for fast motorboats, and paddle between Stora and Lilla Krokholmen back to the jetty.