Text: Olle Persson.

A coastline like no other

Sweden’s coast runs all the way from the Norwegian border in the west, around Skåne and Blekinge in the south-east and up to the Torne River on the Finnish border – around 2,500 km without counting every bay and headland. Count those and it is many times longer. The whole coast is superb for kayak touring, and the contrasts are huge. The archipelagos of Bohuslän, Blekinge and the Stockholm region are fairly sheltered, while Halland, Skåne and most of the northern coast face the open sea and offer very different challenges.

Bohuslän (west coast)

Bohuslän is famous for its smooth, bare granite islands. The whole coast is great for touring, except near Gothenburg, where the entrance to the Nordic region’s largest port is dangerous for kayaks. Leisure-boat traffic can be heavy in peak holiday weeks, but outside those, paddling here is a joy.

Two favourites are the islands around Orust, the west coast’s largest island, and Marstrand. On Orust you can paddle sheltered down the west side from Gullholmen to Käringön, visit old fishing villages and, if you like, test the swell in the sounds facing the open sea. There are several kayak rentals on the island, for example at Stockens camping near Ellös. The compact archipelago around Marstrand, Koön and Instön is full of narrow channels and swimming rocks; avoid the open Marstrandsfjorden to the north and the bays south of the Albrektsund canal. Kayaks can be rented in Marstrand near the ferry.

The Blekinge archipelago

Blekinge is the southernmost large archipelago in the Baltic, with close to a thousand islands. Our pick is the Hällaryd archipelago just east of Karlshamn, partly protected as nature reserves. Good starting points are Matvik and Järnavik (kayak rental available). It is varied and mostly sheltered, but the crossing from Järnavik and Tjärö towards Mjöösund is exposed to southerly winds – the point at Alböleudde is notorious. Haröskärv is worth a visit in calm weather, and Tärnö is the last outpost before the open sea: land on the north side, swim on the south side.

City paddling in Kalmar

Kalmar was once Sweden’s gateway to the world. The city centre is built on islands with canals in between, which makes it perfect for short trips – paddle around the moat of magnificent Kalmar Castle, or head north to Rafshagen campsite for a longer day. A good launch site in the centre is by Vattentornsparken, where you can also rent kayaks and SUPs.

The Misterhult archipelago

On the northern coast of Småland, Misterhult is one of the gems of the east coast, with nature reserves, bird and seal sanctuaries and countless islets for breaks. Start from Blankaholm, Hornsudde (kayak rental), Västervik or Lysingsbadet. A lovely day trip from Hornsudde goes past Spårö båk, one of Sweden’s oldest sea marks, out to the islands around Krokö and Idö with its former pilot station.

S:t Anna

The S:t Anna archipelago in Östergötland is the best known among kayakers – and our absolute favourite in Sweden. It is a maze of low islands, so navigate carefully. Stay away from the main shipping channel and enjoy the silence. For the best overview, climb Kupa klint on the island of Kupan. Birdlife is rich, with plenty of white-tailed eagles. Start from Tyrislöt campsite or the kayak rental at Tyrislöt on Norra Finnö.

Stendörren in Sörmland

The Stendörren nature reserve north of Nyköping packs every type of archipelago landscape into a small area. A visitor centre explains the nature, you can combine paddling with hiking, and there are plenty of barbecue spots. Launch from the canoe jetty by the far car park. Read more in Kayaking at Stendörren.

The Stockholm archipelago

Stockholm’s vast archipelago stretches from Landsort in the south to Örskär in the north. The inner parts are fairly built-up, while the outer archipelago is wilder but more exposed to wind, and the main channels can be busy with boats. The Archipelago Foundation (Skärgårdsstiftelsen) manages around 40 nature reserves open to everyone – perfect destinations. In the south we love Järflotta near Nynäshamn and the islands around Långviksskär off Nämndö (see a week in the southern Stockholm archipelago and sea kayaking to Bullerö). In the north, the Möja archipelago and the islands around Arholma, Lidö and Fejan are great choices.

Visiting Stockholm? You don’t have to leave the city to paddle. Rent a kayak at our base on Långholmen and try one of our popular routes in Stockholm, or join a guided kayak tour in English.

The northern coast

From the Dalälven estuary to the Torne River, the coast along the Gulf of Bothnia is mostly open to the sea. Two stretches stand out: the High Coast and the Luleå archipelago.

The High Coast

The High Coast (Höga kusten), from the Ångerman River north of Härnösand to Skags udde near Örnsköldsvik, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cliffs drop steeply into the sea and deep bays cut far inland. Paddling here can be demanding: in the southern part, up to Bönhamn, the islands are far apart, landing is difficult and waves rebound off the shore. Highlights include the fishing village of Bönhamn (kayak rental), Högbonden lighthouse, the Ulvö islands with red granite and fermented herring, and Trysunda with its sandy beaches. And the light – long summer evenings bring out the drama of the landscape.

The view south over the High Coast from Högbonden lighthouse.

Land uplift has left this old boathouse far from the water – you see its effects all along this coast.

The Luleå archipelago

Sweden’s northernmost archipelago has scattered islands with wide open bays between them; many are sandbanks lifted above sea level by land uplift. No crowds here – just long, empty beaches for breaks or camping. Favourites include the northern tip of Junkön, the south side of Storbrändön and Hindersön with its restaurant, and Nord-Mörön further south, where a magnificent sandbank joins the island to Möröskäret. Haparanda Sandskär National Park lies far out at sea and needs stable, calm weather.

Gear for kayak touring

For longer trips you need a sea kayak with good storage, a life jacket and a spray deck. Travelling by train or ferry? An inflatable kayak is the easy option. Find everything in our shop on Hornsgatan in Stockholm, and read kayak touring in Sweden and the entire Swedish coast by sea kayak.