A trip report by Olle Persson.

Arctic Sea Kayak Ramble

Along the rugged Norwegian coast, just north of Lofoten, lie the Vesterålen islands in the county of Nordland. One of the larger islands is Andøya, a starting point for whale safaris into the North Atlantic. The scenery is spectacular – wild alpine peaks dropping steeply into the sea, alternating with low islands and sandy beaches. Just off Andøya lies Tindsøya, and in a secluded bay there is Skipnes, an abandoned fishing village with a disused fish factory. With Skipnes as its base, a gathering for sea kayakers from all over the world was held here every year: the Arctic Sea Kayak Ramble. A group of keen sea paddlers from Brunnsvikens kanotklubb in Stockholm made the journey.

The base for the Arctic Sea Kayak Ramble: the abandoned fishing village of Skipnes. It looks idyllic in the sun – but no fishing boats call at the quay any more.

Exotic and exciting for southerners

Towing a fully loaded kayak trailer, we discover just how long Scandinavia is. We think we have arrived at Narvik, but the narrow road winding between mountains and sea up to Vesterålen seems endless. Our goal is Kråkberget, a jetty in a fjord surrounded by high peaks. It is drizzling and blowing hard. Tomorrow we will paddle almost ten kilometres out to Tindsøya, so we crawl into our tents, well guyed against the wind.

When we set off, the wind has eased a little, but rain and dry spells alternate and a support boat carries our luggage. It is July – high summer in Stockholm – but far north of the Arctic Circle it is almost Arctic, at 10–14 °C. Daily showers turn to snow or hail, and the wind is always fresh, sometimes a gale. For us it is exotic and exciting; for the local paddlers it is just another day.

The Atlantic swell builds

Around a hundred paddlers gather in the harbour bay, most from Europe but some from other continents. A long day trip awaits, and we get a taste of the Atlantic. The first hours are deceptively calm. When we stop on the small island of Sandholmen, the beach is covered with colourful kayaks. It looks festive, and everyone is cheerful, excited and well wrapped up.

A sheltered break before heading out into the fjord – kayaks everywhere on Sandholmen.

We head out into the wide, open Børøyfjorden. Luckily for our balance, we paddle straight into the wind heading west – because suddenly the swell rises like a steep wall ahead of us. In the troughs we see nothing; on the dizzying crests the whole North Atlantic seems to lie before us. A rolling support boat picks up anyone who capsizes. We round the steep peak of Tinden and relax once past the worst waves. Back on land, several paddlers pack up and leave early – for some it was simply too much.

In the kingdom of wildlife

It is not only the landscape that is wild. Sea eagles, often in pairs, soar high above us and along the mountainsides. Puffins dive surprisingly fearlessly for food just a few metres from the kayaks, surfacing with small fish in their colourful beaks. A porpoise leaps right in front of our bows. The waters are rich in whales, but sadly we don’t see any.

The shop and post office at Tinden

Below Tinden stand a few white houses, including a village shop that doubles as a post office. The shopkeeper, 85 years young, eagerly waves us in as we paddle past – he is a local character. To buy something you put the money in the open till and take your own change. For an almost symbolic sum we are served waffles while he tells tall tales, and from a special freezer he shows off some frozen trophies: a seal, a sea eagle and a Christmas tree.

A Russian wreck – and dry clothes at last

One trip takes us across the rolling Børøyfjorden to Skogsøya. On the way back we pass the wreck of a Russian warship lying upside down by a skerry. Next to it, local jokers have built a mini submarine out of large stones – supposedly the one that sank it.

The week of intense sea kayaking ends with an unofficial marathon world championship for sea kayaks. Some of our club mates take part, but we older paddlers skip it: the course runs partly over completely open sea and feels far too risky – and unnecessarily long. Instead we paddle calmly back to Kråkberget, enjoying the landscape, and join the others at a hotel in Sortland for a dinner with prize-giving. And warm rooms: after a hot shower, we put on properly dry clothes for the first time in a week – and escape Skipnes’ only working shower, the one with ice-cold fjord water.

Gear for paddling in the far north

• Cold-water clothing: with water and air around 10 °C, a dry suit is essential. Read about clothing and safety in cold water.
• A seaworthy kayak: Atlantic swell calls for a stable sea kayak with a well-fitting spray deck.
• Rescue skills: practise kayak rescue techniques before you go.
• Getting there: an inflatable kayak is easier to bring by train or plane to remote coasts.

Starting your Nordic adventure in Stockholm? Rent a kayak on Långholmen or join a guided kayak tour in English.

Text: Olle Persson